Published: 12 August, 2010
by MATTHEW LEWIN

DO not be put off by the rather sparse look of this new restaurant – because there is a chef in the kitchen with flair and enthusiasm who can really cook.

New Zealand chef Adrian Stoddard gives us an intelligent tour around Europe, spending more time in Italy than anywhere else.

A starter of sardines on toast was excellent. However, the stuffed courgette flower was just a little disappointing – the batter was heavy but the stuffing was super.

We also sampled a very good English radish, feta, cumin, mange tout and rocket salad with a mustard dressing, and a simply excellent “haddock tail with a tomato, clam, new potato and basil white wine stew” – a description that just did not do justice to the dish that arrived – haddock fillets and seafood in a lovely rich broth. My choice was a stew of braised lamb with cider, rosemary and oranges with new potatoes and coriander. Again, the potatoes were just a touch too hard, but this too was under-sold. It was rich, the meat was tender, it was full of flavour and I enjoyed it immensely. But the hit of the evening was a risotto with oyster mushrooms, baby spinach tarragon and goats’ cheese that was simply outstanding.

Desserts were pleasant, but didn’t ring any loud bells. Pannacotta with passion fruit tasted very good, but was loaded with too much gelatine. A banana split had good ice cream, but I think we were all expecting a somewhat more colourful production number. The dark chocolate mousse with raspberries and orange shortbread was excellent.

Including two bottles of wine and mint teas for all, our bill came to £136 for four. That’s reasonable for the impressive meal we had. Highly recommended, I say.

RATING: 3 STARS

SUMMARY: Looks like a simple café, but expect very good food. Open every day from 8am to 10.30pm. Expect to spend around £24 for a three-course dinner, before drinks and service.

Belsize Kitchen 

68 Belsize Lane, NW3. 020 7794 6957

Email: belsizekitchen@yahoo.co.uk

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