The Independent London Newspaper
Food and drink - Restaurants - Guglee in Finchley Road
Published: 26 May 2011
by MATTHEW LEWIN
A GOOGLY, as all cricket lovers will know, is a type of delivery usually bowled by a spin bowler that appears to be one thing, but turns out to be something completely different and thus bamboozles the batsman.
The two brothers who opened Guglee eight months ago drew on that concept for the name of their new restaurant – not for the deception angle, but the idea that guests are going to be surprised by something refreshingly different.
This is genuine Indian food, prepared by a chef from Benares, and – as soon as Camden Council gives them permission – Nikhil and Sachin Mulane will also have a stall on the pavement serving the kind of street food you would find in Mumbai, Delhi and everywhere else in India.
Paper platefuls of sev puri chaat (puffed hollow pastry filled with chickpeas and yoghurt and home-made chutney), falafel burgers, veggie burgers, crisp potato cakes with yoghurt and chutney, and crispy fried spinach leaves with yoghurt and tamarind chutney.
For the time being you will have to eat the food from the kitchen, rather than the pavement, and I think you will find it is all very good indeed.
We tried two of the street food starters: the stuffed puris sprinkled with sev (shredded crispy noodles) and the fried spinach leaves topped with yoghurt and tamarind chutney – all excellent.
My main course was a suitably spicy (I asked for it that way) “lamb curry Indian railway special”. It turns out that this is a kashmiri lamb stew curry traditionally prepared for railway dining cars, and sometimes known as rogan josh. I had it with jeera rice (with cumin seeds), a lovely raita to cool the mouth and a peshawari naan.
My Chief Culinary Adviser was extremely happy with her choice of Goan fish curry with coconut and a secret blend of herbs, and with her perfectly fresh mixed “kachumber” salad.
We were, to put it delicately, stuffed, and the idea of dessert was not on the agenda. But Nikhim insisted that we try his special variety of kulfi. Kulfi is usually a rather sickly sweet frozen concoction of nut paste and yoghurt and I don’t like it, but this one changed my perception of the dish for ever. This was made with rose water flavoured with ginger and a little pistachio and yoghurt and it was dreamy.
The brothers are very conscious of environmental issues. There only use low energy light bulbs, they are great supporters of the Jeans for Genes charity, and all waste is scrupulously recycled – including the used cooking oil. This goes to an organisation called One Way Theatre which travels round showing films about the environment, and whose van has been adapted to run on used vegetable oil!
Our entire meal, including a glass of wine and a beer, came to £50, or £25 a head. Terrific value for money.
SUMMARY: This is the modern face of really good Indian cooking – two brothers with big ideas and a gem of a chef from Benares. Open every day for lunch and dinner. Expect to spend around £22 for three courses including a side dish and rice, but before drinks and service. There are special lunch deals from £5.99 and excellent value thalis (complete meals on a tray) for £12. Impeccable green credentials.
Rating: 4 (out of 5 stars)
GUGLEE
7 New College Parade, Finchley Road, NW3
020 7722 8474, info@guglee.co.uk
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