Published: 15 September 2011
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

MACHURIAN Legends is not for everyone.

If you’re the kind of person who balks at the thought of liver or tongue, you might find the menu a challenge.

The more obscure parts of a pig are a feature, alongside chicken hearts, whole fish heads and frogs. If you’re vegetarian, or mainstream in your meat tastes, your choices will be limited; like going to Pizza Express if you don’t touch bread, tomatoes and cheese.  

It may also not be your dream destination if you like to dine in sepulchral silence.

This four-floored restaurant in Chinatown has an informal, lively atmosphere with bad pop music issuing from the kitchen, the occasional burble of an in-house intercom and the threat of karaoke from one of the upstairs rooms (although, in fairness, we didn’t hear any strangulated singing while we were there).

At one point, an ear-piercing alarm went off and stayed beeping for several minutes while the staff wondered how to silence it.

Manchurian Legends is probably not the restaurant for those who prefer their flavours mild. This is authentic cooking from the historic Manchurian region of north-east China – hence the name.    

We got things rolling with some lamb and beef skewers – the most popular street food in Dongbei (the modern Chinese Mandarin name for Manchuria).

Encrusted with cumin seeds and chilli, they were properly fatty and delicious.

We also tried two sets of dumplings, pork and pickle and chive and egg. While the pork held its own when dipped in soy sauce, the latter were slightly overwhelmed.

Next, we squeamishly forsook the fried pigs’ ears and went for a more conventional cut of the beast: double cooked pork belly slices with chilli and onion, which was served in its own wok.

It was tasty and filling, as was a vegetable dish of aubergine, red peppers and potatoes copiously laced with garlic.
Portions are huge.

“I eat in Chinatown all the time,” said my companion afterwards, as we waddled down Macclesfield Street clutching our doggy bags, “and most of the meals are unmemorable. But that place had spirit and character.”

And despite the fact that one of us is offal-adverse, the other has bland tastes and both are easily irritated, we had a great meal.
Manchurian Legends is a bit of a find.  

Summary:
Authentic, fiery and filling Chinese cooking. You can have a feastfor £15 a head.

MANCHURIAN LEGENDS
12 Macclesfield Street, W1
020 7437 8785