Published: 1 December, 2011
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

I suspect I am not alone in loathing group meals.

Where to start on the reasons?

The fact that the venues tend to be chosen for their cheapness, and so usually have rubbish food; that someone will insist on ordering a round of unwanted digestifs at a fiver a pop; the fact that the interesting conversation always seems to be at the other end of the table.

And then, of course, the faff over dividing up the bill.

The understanding that these events were an obligatory part of student life contributed to my decision to drop out of university (this was back in the insouciant, full-grant days, of course), and when it comes to the Christmas party season, I am freelance and thus spared the ordeal of the office lunch.

If I were forced to endure such a thing again, though, I might go if it were at Cabana.

This new chain of fun Brazilian restaurants are ideal venues for such gatherings.

In fact, during our visit to the branch in Covent Garden, several large groups actually looked like they were enjoying themselves.

However, it hardly conjures the chaos and colour of the backstreets of Rio.

The walls are yellow and orange; kites hang from the industrial ceiling; banquettes are made out of old jeans.

The loos are colour-coded pink and blue, music is loud and fast-changing, while the youthful staff call customers “lovely” and send through your order on their iPhones.

Foodwise, you begin with a selection of “street food” – Brazilian snacks to share, such as lumps of parmesan dipped in honey, cheesy dough balls and grated sweetcorn.

Then it’s quickly on to barbecue skewers, which are circulated around the room by the staff.

Every few minutes you’re approached – a blessed interruption! – and asked if you want what they’re proffering (chilli and cumin lamb, for instance, or spicy tiger prawns) and on it goes until you are stuffed to the gills, and can just about summon the strength to flip over a little card to its red side, to signal “no more, thanks, I’m about to explode”.

The food is good quality – the lamb in particular stood out – and the drinks, too.

My friend rated his caipirinha 7/10, and he is a harsh marker.

The red wine is not at all bad.

Nothing is too expensive – street food is around the £3.50 mark, and skewers range from £3.35 to £5.95 – but if you’re greedy it all adds up.  

As we left, we asked the manager how business was going, and he replied that there were 400 bookings for Christmas.

If your office is one of them, you don’t have too much to fear.

Summary: Lively Brazilian barbecue, great for groups. Approx £20-£30 a head.

Cabana Covent Garden
7 Central St Giles Piazza, WC2H 8AD
020 7632 9630
www.cabana-brasil.com