Published: 24 November, 2011
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

ONE of the nice things about getting older is having the experience and confidence to cull entire art forms from one’s life.

I have long ago given up on contemporary dance – and mime, but that goes without saying – while a friend has gone further and no longer attends the theatre, on the grounds that the tickets are too expensive, the seats too uncomfortable and 80 per cent of plays are rubbish.

I still go to the theatre, but usually leave at the interval. Slipping out of a play at half time has become one of the great small pleasures.

Admittedly, going to the theatre in order to leave it is an expensive way to get one’s kicks – especially if you then celebrate your freedom at the seafood restaurant J Sheekey in Covent Garden, as we did last week.

This was not in the main restaurant, for which you have to book weeks in advance and where you might spot Sienna Miller, but the next-door oyster bar, which accepts walk-ins and bail-outs like us.

The bar is a hugely glamorous space, with its marble, horseshoe-shaped bar and Art Deco details.

Dishes are discreetly prepared behind the bar in front of you, and our dissection of the play’s first half was punctuated by the sound of crustacea being expertly cracked open.

We resisted ordering oysters, on the basis that they are unimaginative, and instead sampled half a dozen small dishes from the short menu, which were delivered to us as they were ready, along with a glass of Gaston-Chiguet champagne.

Dorset crab on toast with avocado; sautéed octopus, chorizo and broad beans; half a lobster mayonnaise, deep-fried goujons; Sheekey’s isn’t about fancy cooking, but rather relies on fresh ingredients, tried and tested flavour combinations and stylish presentation. Everything we tried went down a treat; but then, such is the wonderful ambience of the place and the sense of well-being it induces, the food could have been terrible and we would still have left content.

Skipping out of a bad play and a delicious hour at Sheekey’s – as jaunts go it may not be cheap, but not all the best things in life are free.

I also notice that the bar has started to host Sheekey’s Speakeasies.

These are Prohibition-style Sunday evening events that combine dinner and a cocktail with entertainment.

Summary: Great fish and excellent service in very stylish surroundings. Six West Mersea oysters and a glass of champagne costs £15.75; small plates start at £6.75.

J  Sheekey
28-34 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL
020 7240 2565
www.jsheekeyoysterbar.co.uk